No matter what type of training your doing, consequences are always going to be a part of it. That doesn’t mean that consequences have to be harsh and physically uncomfortable. In actuality, everything a dog does creates a consequence. Sometimes the consequence is something good like a treat or a pet, but sometimes that consequence is something negative like taking away a toy or not allowing a dog out of a crate.

Time-outs are one of my favorite consequences because it gives a clear communication of what isn’t working for the dog. A time-out is where the dog is isolated from an event for a certain amount of time due to an inappropriate behavior. Time-outs can be used anywhere for anything. There are rules that you must follow in order to make it a successful time-out.

When giving a time-out be sure that you’re not showing emotion. A true leader doesn’t show emotion when giving a negative consequence. Remain calm and matter-of-fact. You’ll use either a leash, the collar, or if the dog is small enough, you can carry him; be sure you’re not petting or talking while doing so. If you use the collar, grab the side and use the slightest pressure possible.

Time-out areas can change depending on your circumstances. When at home, it’s easy to use a crate or small room as the isolation point, don’t worry, you’re dog will not start to hate his crate. If you’re out in public you can use your car, a portable crate or just taking the dog away from the action may work.

When giving time-outs, you start out at thirty-seconds and increase as needed. When a time-out is completed, only allow the dog freedom by exhibiting self-control and a permission word. Don’t be surprised if your dog attempts the inappropriate behavior again, he’s only trying to figure out what caused the consequence of the time-out.

My dogs get three chances to do the right thing before receiving a time-out, I call that the “three strikes and you’re out” rule. Once I feel my dog is understanding what I’m wanting I start taking the chances down. Let’s look at some examples.

I don’t like my dogs jumping on the couch unless they get permission. If my dog jumps up I gently take the side of his collar and remove him using as little pressure as possible. I don’t say anything during this process and as soon as he’s moving on his own, I let go of the collar. If he jumps up two more times he goes to the crate. After thirty-seconds I allow the dog out with permission. If the dog jumps up on the couch I start the process again. Once I feel the dog is getting it, it goes to two strikes before time-out.

If I ask my dog to sit while out in a park and  my dog knows sit, and I mean, really knows sit, and my dog doesn’t sit, I’ll ask two more time before she gets a time-out. If my car is close by, I put her in the car for the allotted time. I let her out of the car and take her back to the exact spot I was asking for the sit and ask her again. She again gets a three tries and I repeat the time-out if she doesn’t respond. I continue this until I get the sit behavior. It’s very important that you go back to the exact spot and you get the behavior you’re asking for without pushing the dog’s butt down or bribing with a treat. The other important thing to remember is, don’t change what you would normally do when asking for a sit. Follow through and be confident! If my car isn’t close, I stand still, say nothing and wait for my dog to sit on her own. I then praise and move on with my day.

Remember, time-outs are a useful tool. They must be done correctly, confidently and they must be followed through. Whoever puts the dog in time-out gets the dog out of time-out. Some time-outs may need to be longer than others. You do whatever your mood is telling you. I’d rather you keep the dog in the crate for a longer period of time than screaming and yelling or just giving in.

Alex is a 1 year old female Golden Retriever that was rescued from a backyard breeder. She spent her life in a small concrete pen and is having difficulties adjusting to a new and better world.

Alex is very small for a Golden and has none of the fun loving personality she should have. She walks well on a leash but is timid the entire time. When she rides in the car she hunkers down in the floorboard and hides her head under the seat. When she’s in the house she finds a safe zone and stays in it.

The first thing we’re doing with Alex is not allowing her to go and hide. She is attached to our trainer by a leash and will have to be out and around the other dogs and people. She gets praised for showing small amounts of confidence such as walking with her head higher than normal(low) or relaxing. She will begin working for her food and will learn to not bolt out doors. These simple exercises will help to instill some confidence and set some expectations. Alex will not receive any sympathy during the SCAR program. There’s no baby talk, no coddling and no reassuring. We’re matter of fact, confident leaders that are going to help her learn that she can handle the world independently!

Keep checking back for updates on Alex. She’ll be returning to her foster home in 1-2 weeks.

08/02/10

Unfortunately, Alex did not do well in this environment and the time it would have taken her to get comfortable wouldn’t have given us any time to work with her. We sent her back to her foster home with a game plan on how they can help her overcome the issues she’s facing. Please keep Alex in your prayers and we’ll try to update soon!